Rich Table's Jonny Gilbert on how to feel like somebody
Jonny Gilbert cut his proverbial restaurant teeth at New York establishments Bouley and Per Se before he was brought across the country by Evan and Sarah Rich to open Rich Table. Jonny, Sarah, and Evan had spent many a late night after work dreaming about the day they would open their own restaurant - he was a natural choice to manage the couple’s first venture. Since he made the move, Jonny has helped open the Rich’s second restaurant, RT Rotisserie, and become a Partner in both. We sat down with Johnny to find out what makes for an ideal day at work and away (hint: there’s a lot of steak.)
On his service philosophy:
I like the saying “be somebody who makes everybody feel like a somebody.” Make everyone around you feel like they are special. I work hard at making sure I know what guests like, what they have ordered in the past, and what they are going to order. As you practice it becomes easier and easier; the more people I meet the more I remember. People are sometimes shocked; they wonder how I know who they are.
At Rich Table, we’re a “hugs not a handshake” place. If a server gets a hug at the end of the meal, that means we've won you over and created a relationship. We want you to have not only the desire to come in, but the desire to come back.
ON HIS IDEAL DAY OFF:
Jonny in RT Rotisserie
Our morning ritual is a drip Dunkin Donuts coffee. We sit by our bay window and slowly enjoy the morning. From there, our days off are action-packed. We spend time with family. My favorite thing is heading to the market and bringing home fresh produce. It’s hard not to go out to eat in this town, but I like to cook ribeye and homemade pasta. One thing I love about The French Laundry Cookbook is the homemade pasta recipes. They're very simple, straightforward and delicious.
On eating and breathing Rich:
When it comes to eating out on my days off, my fiancée and I always have a brief moment of “I wish we could eat at RICH TABLE or RT Rotisserie today.” I honestly think that if I could, I would eat here all the time.
On his SF favorites:
I love exploring my neighborhood on my days off and walking around Russian Hill. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve been to House of Prime Rib. I always order the king’s cut and a second slice. Don’t eat the bread; that’s the trick. I get a gin martini and a nice Cab. Whenever family or friends are in town, I take them there. It’s one of my favorite spots in the city. I’m addicted.
Al’s Place is amazing. I also love Liholiho. I took my parents there when they were in town and we had a great meal. Everyone there is so hospitable and warm. Ravi is an amazing chef. I love the flavoring.
At Cotogna, we sit at the bar and order pasta and a half bottle of Burgundy and a half bottle of Barolo.
State Bird Provisions and Octavia are both fantastic. At Octavia, Robert and Melissa will take care of you. They appreciate you and are heartwarmingly welcome. Nopa is fantastic for brunch. Lawrence and the team there do great things. It’s a beast of a restaurant that just doesn’t quit. On top of that, everyone there is super gracious.
On Taking it down a notch:
When I want something low key, I get pizza at Del Popolo and it never lets me down. They do a white anchovy pizza that's off the hook. Cordon Bleu is a great little Vietnamese grilled chicken spot in my neighborhood - it’s a small bar with 12 seats and one lady is just cooking there with an open flame. I love that spot. Brass Tacks is my go-to bar in Hayes Valley.
Rich Table Burger (photo credit: Kassie Borreson)
I’ve been eating a lot more fast casual because of what we are doing at RT Rotisserie. I like checking out places like Little Gem and Blue Barn to see what they do. The guys at Media Noche make an awesome chicken sandwich.
On his service pet peeves:
Lacking urgency. If I don’t see intensity, it really boils my blood because you are here to do a job. Mistakes happen but if they happen because of a lack of focus, that's frustrating to me. If you take the wrong order again and again, you need to figure out a way to fix the issue.
Tardiness. I don’t stand for it. If you are one minute late, you’re ten minutes late. I’m a big advocate of that saying.
On his last great vacation:
My fiancée and I were recently engaged in Guanajuato, Mexico. We spent time all over Jalisco with her family - in Tequila, Chapala, Tepatitlan - and San Miguel de Allende was really special. We had an amazing lunch in a courtyard sipping on champagne and soaking in the beautiful city.
We also went to Tulum back in December 2016 and dream of returning. It is truly gorgeous! The jade green waters, white sand beaches, Mayan history, incredible warmth and hospitality, and with a slower pace and a comforting calmness. We loved it!
On the place that makes him feel like somebody:
When I visit The French Laundry, I feel like a superstar. They really go above and beyond any expectation. I am always blown away by the personal approach and incredible care they extend. Both Michael Manillo and Nick Fitch do an amazing job instilling the finesse that makes The French Laundry incredibly special.
On getting started in the industry:
I’ve been working in restaurants for 20 years. I first moved to New York with the goal of working in advertising. My dad was an art director in Boston and I wanted to follow his footsteps - be a “Mad Man.” I was miserable.
Right after 9/11, Bouley had just reopened and was looking for staff. I walked in the door and the maitre d' basically laughed at me because I didn’t have any experience. He asked me the difference between Pouilly-Fuisse and Pouilly-Fume and threw out all these other terms and I had never heard of anything and none of it made sense. But for whatever reason, I loved the space and I really wanted to work there. So I went and bought the Food Companion from Barnes & Noble and I pretty much read it all night long - highlighting stuff, cramming.
I went back the next day and said, “Hey, I’m ready for those questions again.” He fired off probably 10 questions and I nailed them all. He didn’t know what to think. He said they were having a Friends & Family meal on Saturday. I didn’t know what that was, but I went to Chinatown and bought black dress shoes and white shirt dress shirt and a burgundy tie for $20 total. From that first time walking into work, I loved it. It felt like I had found my calling, and I knew I wanted to do it forever. It was an awakening kind of moment.
My first gig was polishing glasses in the back and then someone needed a food runner. Early on, I would work 5 doubles a week no problem and spend my days off at the farmer’s market and doing blind tastings. You could say I really dove in.
I went from polishing glasses to becoming a maitre d' and did everything in between at Bouley. That’s where I met Evan and Sarah [Rich, the owners of Rich Table]. We’d go out after work to Inoteca and talk about how one day we'd have our own restaurant. That was our dream. After a few years at Bouley, we all grew so much and believed that one day it could happen.
On moving up in the industry:
I was recruited by Per Se. A long time colleague and mentor of mine, Peter Esmond [now the Founder & CEO of Reserve], liked my style and thought I would do well with the Thomas Keller Restaurant Group. I knew Peter because Per Se had a fire right after they opened and Peter came and served tables at Bouley to make some extra bucks while they were closed. When Peter started talking to me about Per Se, it was hard for me to imagine anything better than Bouley.
So I go to Per Se. They pour me champagne and served me little gougeres and salmon cornets at a beautiful table overlooking Central Park. Peter leaves me against the wall and tells me to observe for the rest of the night. It was like a ballet - elegant and beautiful - and then in the back kitchen, it’s like Wall Street - the intensity and the nonstop motion. The staff in the kitchen had immense concentration. Thomas Keller always uses the word finesse to describe it.
I put in my notice the next day. I joined the team at Per Se and I was there for about six years food running and serving, never management. The serving role was perfect for me. I polished my skills, my knowledge of wine, everything. If Bouley was college, this was grad school. A doctorate in food and wine and service.
Evan & Sarah Rich (photo credit: Kassie Borreson)
On getting the call:
After that, I moved back to New England (where I’m from) and one day, Evan and Sarah called me and said, "We’re ready to open up. We’re finally doing it. Are you in?" I came out to SF and Evan wined and dined me for a week and showed me the talent out here. I wasn’t sure if I would like SF, but after just a year, I know I’m never leaving. It was the best decision I have ever made in my life. I met my fiancée here. I have the career I never thought I could dream of. Opening up and operating these restaurants as the GM has been incredible - a lot of change, evolution, and relationship building.
On Evan & Sarah Rich:
One thing I love about working with Evan and Sarah is that they have a simple approach with immense focus and a clear vision of what needs to get done. At RICH TABLE and RT Rotisserie, we are super grateful for every guest that walks through that door. The guests are everything to the restaurant. We wouldn’t have a place to exist and create better ideals without our guests' support. It’s simple - just take care of them.
(opening photo credit: Kassie Borreson)
